FindEatDrink: Don't Buy The Worm

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Edition: 4 May, 2011

"There is no worth to the worm. You are just excited about this machismo experience - this John Wayne idea of moonshine. It covers up the flavor of a bad distillation and provides a gimmick. It tastes like dirt."

- Mezcal Producer / Master Sommelier Richard Betts

While it may have been a floating body of a moth larva that initially brought your attention to mezcal, it's time to rethink tequila's lesser known cousin. Finer mezcals are handcrafted by Oaxacan villagers, who roast the fruit of the heritage agave (the piña) over open fires, which gives it a signature smokey flavor (see slideshow).

Master Sommelier Richard Betts is one-third of the team behind the microbatch mezcal Sombra, made from organically grown espadin agave.

We asked him for his 5 favorite mezcals:

1. DEL MAGUEY

What: Ron Cooper was the first to bring artisanal mezcals to America in 1995. Made by individual family producers in tiny remote villages scattered throughout Oaxaca.

Buy: Available at these retailers.

2. SOMBRA "The Shade"

What: Espadin agave is grown and distilled in the small village San Luis Del Rio. A spicy, fruity and smokey nose with a high note of citrus.

Buy: Available at these retailers.

3. LOS AMANTES "The Lovers"

What: A touch of agave sweetness and a long smoky finish. Made by painter Guillermo Olguin, who opened Casa Mezcal in New York's Lower East Side.

Buy: Available at these retailers.

4. LOS DANZANTES "The Dancers"

What: Bottlings made from espadin agave and the rarer, tobala agave. Slow-roasted with mesquite, crushed with a stone mill, and naturally fermented in a wooden cask.

Buy: Available at these retailers.

5. ILEGAL

What: A little more smooth and less overtly a product of the process, meaning the fire and the smoke. They make a Joven (young), Reposado (aged 4 months), Añejo (aged at least 1 year), all made from espadin agave.

Buy: Available at these retailers.

COCKTAIL RECIPE...

These mezcals are perfect for sipping, but celebrate Cinco de Mayo with Margarita 2.0, created by Jim Meehan of PDT for Sombra.

RECOMMENDATIONS...

Richard Bett's recommendations for where to eat and drink around the United States, France and Mexico, as well as where to research wine and who to follow on Twitter.