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Find. Eat. Drink.
Edition: 9 November, 2011
Take It With A Grain Of Salt
Grains Of Salt

" I hate table salt. I despise kosher salt. I think they are far more evil than strip malls and Velveeta cheese. "

Salt Expert Mark Bitterman

If your salt has a logo of a girl holding an umbrella, Mark Bitterman says throw it out. Mark is a Selmelier, his self-coined sniglet for a sommelier of salt. He is also the award-winning author of Salted: A Manifesto on the World's Most Essential Mineral and the co-owner of The Meadow, a boutique dedicated to over 100 varieties of specialty salts.

"I don't like either table or kosher salt, because I don't like refined chemicals... I would never go out and intentionally source chemically refined anything and put it into my food -- especially when there are polar opposites available in beautiful, natural, unrefined, artisan salt."

Here are the salts Mark Bitterman suggests you use:

Fleur de Sel

A delicate finishing salt that can also double as a cooking salt. Mark recommends The Meadow's Fleur De Sel for everyday use.

Sel Gris

A very coarse, granular, minerally salt. It's great for finishing hearty foods, but is also a good cooking salt. Generally, it's an inexpensive way to get into using natural salts for your cooking.

Flake Salts

Like Maldon Salt and more unique varieties like Halen Môn. Perfect for finishing and for sprinkling on a soup or a big mug of hot chocolate.

Traditional Sea Salt

As diverse as a rainbow -- from Red Hawaiian to Trapini. They are harvested once a year and ground up to the coarseness that is desired.

Get The Recs

Recipe...

Your leg of lamb will sing when you use a coarse sel gris to brighten the flavors. Try Mark Bitterman's Buttermilk Leg Of Lamb with The Meadow Sel Gris from his book Salted.

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Recommendations...

From brunch in Portland to burgers in New York, here are Mark's favorite restaurants, bars and shops.

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