Joan Nathan, Cookbook Author, Jewish Cuisine, Journalist, Contributor, New York, Times, James Beard Winner, Jewish Cooking In America, The New American Cooking
JOAN NATHAN - COOKBOOK AUTHOR
JOAN NATHAN
WHO
Joan Nathan is an award-winning author of ten cookbooks and a journalist/contributor to the New York Times.
WHY
Two-time James Beard Award winner Joan Nathan is releasing her tenth cookbook called “Quiches, Kugels and Couscous: My Search for Jewish Cooking in France.” Joan delves into the history and traditions of the Jews in France.
October 21, 2010
RECOMMENDATIONS
Joan Nathan’s recommendations for where to eat and shop in Vermont, Providence, Massachusetts, New York, Brooklyn, Ann Arbor, Houston, Dallas, Washington DC, and Paris.
COOKBOOK AUTHOR
Joan Nathan is an award winning cookbook author and food writer for the New York Times. “Quiches, Kugels and Couscous: My Search for Jewish Cooking in France” is Joan’s tenth cookbook and delves into the history and traditions of the Jews in France and the influence of Mediterranean, Romanian, and Eastern European cuisines. Joan has become the preeminent food writer of Jewish cooking throughout the world. She is a two-time James Beard Award winner for her cookbooks “Jewish Cooking in America” and “The New American Cooking,” which showcases authentic ethnic cooking in the United States.
Q & A WITH JOAN NATHAN
Q. Tell us about your newest cookbook Quiches, Kugels, and Couscous?
A. It’s the culmination of a lifelong love of France: the people, the food and the culture. I lived in France when I was a teenager and again when I was in my twenties. I speak fluent French and got a masters in French Literature, which has helped me in the food world tremendously.
This book has been great fun for me and really a privilege. It’s the food of the Jews of France, they’re not my recipes, they are the people I write about, and the people I talk about. The stories go as far back as 2,000 years up to the present day and the recipes range from ancient kugels to North African stews.
Q. What inspired you to learn about Jewish cooking in France?
A. I was fascinated by the cultural differences and the stories of the War. In returning many years later, I was motivated to dig much deeper into the connection between the stories of these people, and their culinary lives.
Q. Kugel recipes have so many interpretations. Where should someone draw the line as far as ingredients?
A. The word kugel derives from the Germanic root meaning “ball” or “globe.” As such, kugel was originally round and served as the second Sabbath dish. It was originally like a heavy bread pudding and later was combined with dried or fresh pears and/or prunes, much like the Alsatian Pear Kugel with Prunes from my book. It is very delicious! As potatoes and homemade noodles became popular, and industrial pans came into existence, Jews adapted them to this Sabbath side dish. Today, kugel means so many different things. I’m not one for drawing lines.
Q. Can we get you to share some recipes?
A. Yes, the Alsatian Pear Kugel with Prunes, the Terrine de Poireaux (Leek Terrine), Tarte A L’Oignon (Onion Tart Lorraine) and the Gateau de Hanukkah (Hanukkah Polish Apple Cake) are all recipes from “Quiches, Kugels and Couscous: My Search for Jewish Cooking in France.”
Recommendations
FIND...
Q. Who are the cookbook authors you respect?
A. Paula Wolfert. She really does her work. She likes getting to the heart of things the way I like to. A book that I would have love to have written was her first book on Moroccan food, because she was discovering it for Americans.
I certainly respected Julia [Child]. Even when she was in her 90’s, she was so good at transposing recipes. She was just amazing.
EAT...
Q. What restaurants, anywhere in the world, do you think excel at Jewish cooking?
A. In Paris, Osmose is fantastic for French Jewish cooking.
Also in Paris, Au Rendez Vous / La Maison du Couscous is great for Tunisian Jewish cooking.
In Silver Spring, Shalom Kosher Market for the best falafel. It’s a Palestinian making kosher food.
In Dallas, Natalie’s Kitchen and Market. The woman who runs it is from Majorca and is a Spanish Jew. Her family stayed in Spain through the inquisition. They were hidden Jews. A lot of Spanish Jews converted and then converted back to Judaism recently.
Q. How about any places that do a unique spin on deli foods?
A. Mile End in Brooklyn is my new favorite place. He is trying to go back to the real recipes, yet he’s making them better.
Zingerman’s Roadhouse in Ann Arbor. They are deconstructing recipes, all kinds of ethnic recipes and trying to make them better. I like that.
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Q. What do you eat at Zingerman’s?
A. Besides their pastrami, the macaroni and cheese. Their baked goods are as good as it gets.
Q. Other favorites for Jewish deli foods?
A. Second Avenue Deli is very good too. I like the kasha varnishkes.
Katz’s Deli for a pastrami on rye and a cream soda.
Family run Russ and Daughters in New York. For the pickled lox and the Angelino Plums.
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Q. You wrote a cookbook “The New American Cooking” exploring traditional ethnic fare around the country. What are some of your favorite ethnic restaurants?
A. In East Providence, Rhode Island there is a Korean restaurant, Sun and Moon. It’s home cooking. It’s fabulous.
Also in Rhode Island, I like Nick’s on Broadway. He uses a lot of sustainable fresh ingredients and he brings them out to you, it is just so good. It’s not pretentious in any way.
I like Chez Pascal in Rhode Island. They use local ingredients. I don’t care if things are organic...I just want them to be authentic.
In Vermont, Cafe Provence.
Kenny and Ziggy’s in Houston does really good things.
I also like diners. There is a place called Artcliff Diner. It’s an old restaurant, but the chef /owner is a woman named Gina Stanley and she makes the best breakfast. She uses farm fresh eggs and her food is just delicious. It’s just a simple place.
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Q. How about in Washington, DC?
A. Acacia. It’s a new restaurant in DC and the woman who runs it is quite a character. She’s Italian and she cooks what she wants and her food is really good. I took the Israeli’s ambassador’s wife there for lunch recently and it was so tasty you just wanted to eat more.
Bistro Le Pic is so good. Really authentic French bistro and they are so proud of what they do. They aren’t trying to get accolades, just cook well.
Palena in DC. Frank Ruta was the chef at the White House. It’s about to get big, so I don’t know what it’s going to be like. But now it’s small and I just keep wondering where does he get his recipes? His food is just fabulous. It’s upscale, but it’s ethnic. He’s Italian and uses a lot of his father’s and mother’s recipes. It’s just really good!
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Q. Where do you like to eat when you visit New York?
A. I like Julian Medina’s Mexican food at Toloache.
I like Daniel’s food.
I like Momofuku. I really like the chicken buns. I had a brussels sprouts dish there that was one of the best things I ever ate.
I also like Eric Ripert at Le Bernardin.
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DRINK...
Q. Is there a unique or interesting beverage you’ve come across recently and what do you love about it?
A. At Rasoi, a tiny Indian restaurant in Providence, Rhode Island. They have an incredible Ginger Martini.
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Q. Do you have a favorite watering hole/cocktail bar/wine bar that you love to frequent?
A. Room 11 in the Columbia Heights neighborhood of Washington, DC. You can sit outside and the food is very good you. They serve small plates. I was really impressed.
[See details.]
RECIPES
Details of Joan Nathan’s recommendations for where to eat and shop in Vermont, Providence, Massachusetts, New York, Brooklyn, Ann Arbor, Houston, Dallas, Washington DC, and Paris.
RECOMMENDATIONS
Quiches, Kugels, and Couscous: My Search for Jewish Cooking in France [Purchase on Amazon.com]
The New American Cooking [Purchase on Amazon.com]
Joan Nathan's Jewish Holiday Cookbook [Purchase on Amazon.com]
Jewish Cooking in America: Expanded Edition [Purchase on Amazon.com]
The Foods of Israel Today [Purchase on Amazon.com]
The Jewish Holiday Kitchen: 250 Recipes from Around the World to Make Your Celebrations Special [Purchase on Amazon.com]
The Jewish Holiday Baker [Purchase on Amazon.com]