It’s been referred to as the Pittsburgh of Spain, an industrial city in need of some loving. That love arrived over a decade ago, when a monstrous, twisted metallic titanium structure landed on the banks of the Nervion River. Along with it, man’s best friend, a 43-foot tall topiary puppy.
Our pilgrimage to Bilbao wasn’t that different from most tourists, a quick overnight stay to see the Guggenheim Museum, check out a few pintxos bars, and move onto the next destination. We drove into town as the sun was setting and quickly checked into the Miro Hotel, which was conveniently located just down the street from the museum. Following page one of the typical tourist handbook, we ran over the to Guggenheim armed with cameras to get some early evening shots. But as the sun was starting to fade, the evening pintxos bars were getting into full swing, and when it comes to food, we don’t like to miss out.
From about 7pm to 9pm, the streets and plazas are filled with people strolling from bar to bar, stopping to chat with neighbors and friends, children in tow, grazing on pintxos (pronounced “pin-choss”). The insiders have the game down pat. They stop in for only the specialties of the house, then move on. I gotta say it’s hard to pull yourself away from the bar when you’re enjoying the nibbles and a glass of wine. But, we recommend sampling different places.
After nine, the bars start to empty and you move onto a restaurant. Chef Alex Raij, who owns New York pintxos bar, Txikito, along with her husband Eder Montero recommended Cafe Iruna, since Eder’s father works there. Cafe Iruna first opened its doors in 1903 and they’ve only changed the light bulbs since. The decor is a historical treat. Beautiful Moorish-inspired tiled floor and walls, a large wooden bar, and bar keeps dressed in what looks like period costume. We arrived late, so hung out in the bar area and snacked on lamb kebabs. In a corner of the room, a guy grills the kebabs, per order, over an open flame. Served with a couple of pieces of bread, the lamb had hints of fresh lemon, cumin, and a nice mixture of spice and smokiness. Along with a glass of Rioja, it was a perfect ending on a warm, late summer night.
For breakfast, we wandered around the city and ended up in the Plaza Nueva in the Casco Viejo (Old Quarter), where the second Final of the Grand Slam Masters Chess tournament was taking place.
After our mandatory, but very fulfilling tour of the art rich Guggenheim, lunch was in order. We chose to head back to the Plaza Nueva. The chess players had cleared the square, replaced with multi-generational families hanging al fresco around cafe tables.
The jewel of the square is the classic Casa Victor Montes. The facade of the building dates back to 1829, with beautiful gilded Art Nouveau touches. Inside, older men with canes and berets hang at the bar, nursing beers and eating pintxos. We arrived at 2:30pm and the dining area was empty. Within a half-hour, it was filled and bustling. Checkered floor, marble tables, white tiled walls, it has an old world elegance. So does the menu, which consists mostly of traditional offerings, a deep Rioja and Spanish-focused wine list, and a dizzing array of whiskies. We ordered pig’s trotters stuffed with foie gras, and Bacalao al Pil Pil. The trotters were sweet, with almost marmalade or chutney taste. The meat was soft, tender and had a delicate barbecue-type sauce. The Pil Pil is a very authentic Basque dish. It’s made with cod, garlic and olive oil. Three simple ingredients, which is always helped along by the freshness of the bacalao (cod). What makes it unusual, is that they cook the olive oil until it turns into an emulsion sauce. Think along the lines of the consistency of a Béarnaise sauce or even a mayonnaise.
Dessert was not in our cards that afternoon, since our next stop involved a 12-course tasting menu at Asador Etxebarri.
We may have come to Bilbao for a quick museum visit, but Bilbao is not a one-hit wonder. There is much to see, and even more to eat. What was once a soot-covered, graffiti-tagged city has had it’s make-over and is now ready for a nice evening on the town.
