It was David Guas’s grandmother from Amite, Louisiana who taught him about “good eatin’.” “Granny” took David to pick seasonal blackberries, strawberries, and wild berries from the back woods, to then puree and stew them to serve with poultry and meats. This early knowledge served him well. His first high-profile job was as Associate Pastry Chef at the Windsor Court Hotel in New Orleans. When Executive Chef Jeff Tunks moved to Washington, DC to open his own restaurant, he asked David to join him.
For nearly ten years, David Guas was the Executive Pastry Chef of Acadiana, Ceiba, DC Coast, and TenPenh restaurants. He has since left working full time in a restaurant to pursue catering and consulting.
Q & A WITH PASTRY CHEF DAVID GUAS
Q. Do you have a childhood memory related to dessert?
A. Eclairs. My grandfather would pick me up every Sunday morning and bring me to McKenzie’s Bakery (now closed) and tell me I could have whatever I wished. I ordered buttermilk drop donuts, hot glazed [donut], and always an eclair. It had chocolate on top, great choux pastry, and the wonderful vanilla flavored goo (pastry cream). It never made it home.
Q. Taking the belief that “life is short, eat dessert first” what’s the one dessert you will never turn down?
A. Pie.
Q. What sweet would you admit to as your guilty pleasure?
A. Peanut Butter Cups.
Q. Is there one ingredient that you would describe as a baker’s best friend?
A. The vanilla bean.
Q. Do you have someone you consider a mentor or is there someone who currently inspires you?
A. Bo Friberg, Certified Master Pastry Chef. [Bo Friberg is the Department Chair of the Baking and Pastry Program at The Professional Culinary Institute in Campbell, California. He has authored a number of books including: The Professional Pastry Chef: Fundamentals of Baking and Pastry.]
Q. You moved away from New Orleans for Washington, DC. Which Louisiana dishes do you miss the most?
A. Boudin with saltines from Richard’s Seafood Patio in Abbeville, LA.
Q. Have you found a place in DC for eating real-deal Louisiana cuisine?
A. Acadiana.
Q. What’s the one thing you never tire of baking?
A. Chocolate Chip Cookies.
Q. What do you bake for your kids?
A. Well, it isn’t baking, but stove top chocolate pudding!
Q. People think of New Orleans pastry, they think of beignets. But there is so much more to the city. What would you recommend visitors try when they travel there and where should they go to enjoy your recommendations?
A.- Pralines: Aunt Sally’s or Pralines by Jean.
- Hubig’s Pies: which are available at any convenient store counter.
- Pecan Pie: Camellia Grill.
- Gourmet Taffty: Roman Candy. He moves around in a mule driven cart, but it’s often found on St. Charles Avenue.
- Lemon Icebox Pie: Clancy’s.
Q. With Mardi Gras around the corner, what are the key elements to look for in a King Cake?
A. For me, I like the traditional ones; no fruit fillings or cream cheese inside.
Q. Bread is fundamental in both Po’ boys and Muffulettas, who in New Orleans gets it right?
A. Are you kidding me, there is only one bread in New Orleans and that’s Leidenheimer, baby!
Q. New Orleans is famous for inventing historical cocktails like the Ramos Gin Fizz and the Sazerac, who do you think makes the best cocktails in the city?
A. Well, you can go to the Sazerac Bar in the Roosevelt New Orleans Hotel, and Commander’s Palace does a great brandy milk punch.
Q. Which country or region do you think has the best desserts and why?
A. Well there is nothing like France, and most of Europe, because of the rich tradition and incredible dairy! The southern United States is pretty damn unique too, because of all of the hand-me-downs from all other countries, a great melting pot of culture and history.