Just like a well made pizza, chef Michael Ayoub’s professional life has come full circle. Twenty years ago, he opened an upscale Italian restaurant in a fringe neighborhood in Park Slope. At the time, most of the Italian restaurants were little mom-and-pop joints with red-checkered tablecloths. Cucina stood out - it had valet parking, hand-blown glass chandeliers, and a printed wine list.

This past May, chef Michael Ayoub returned to the Park Slope space he had vacated nine years ago. A lot has changed in “The Slope” during those years. No longer is the neighborhood sketchy with abandoned buildings, it’s now gentrified and known as a culinary destination with highly regarded restaurants like Franny’s and Al Di La.

While some things at 256 Fifth Avenue have changed since Michael’s first go-around - the dining room accommodates more tables, the menu is more casual, and the name is now Fornino - Michael’s commitment to his food remains. He still makes his own mozzarella and sausages, and grows many of his own vegetables and herbs, like Fairytale eggplant, heirloom Italian flat beans, and White Wonder cucumbers.

Fornino Park Slope emphasis are thin and crispy grilled pizzas, but the menu also includes pastas, antipasti, and small bites like Arancine. The menu at Michael’s sister restaurant Fornino in Williamsburg, is strictly pizzas, which are made in a wood-burning oven.

Welcome back to the neighborhood and the space!  How did this fortuitous opportunity present itself and how does it feel to return to where you began?

I was looking for the space to open this project, and I heard through the grapevine that the space was available—it’s all very surreal, and I am reliving my youth.

What’s the biggest change in your cooking since you were at Cucina?

I’m 20 years older and I need glasses.

I feel that I have done the “Neapolitan thing.” Next! I love challenging myself.

In the original space, you did the glass blowing for the chandeliers yourself, are you doing that again?

For Fornino Park Slope, I have blown 26 chandeliers in one room and 3 sculptures in the bar room.

You blow sugar for desserts, which is an art unto itself.  What is integral to the process?

Blowing sugar is very similar to glass except that sugar melts.

You dedicate a pizza to Vinny Scotto on your menu, can you tell us about that and you decided on appropriate toppings (bel paese, pecorino, fior di latte, cacciatorini al diavolo, roast pepper aioli, ricotta)?

Vinny was a great friend and he was the first to bring grilled pizza to New York City. The toppings on the pizza we named in his honor were his favorite.

Grilling pizza can be really challenging, can you share some chef secrets for the home cook?

Prepare the dough and keep at room temperature.

Instead of using flour, put olive oil on a tray and spread out the dough with your hands.

Use a gas grill. You can control the heat easier than charcoal, which gets too hot.

Don’t just use mozzarella. Add a soft cheese like:  Bel Paese, Asiago or Fontina. Grate them and add some parmesan.

Use medium direct heat. Cook approximately 3-4 minutes on each side and keep moving the dough to cook evenly. Don’t close the oven top.

You can make the pizza in advance. Just cook it halfway and when guests arrive heat it up until the bottom is crispy.

Are there toppings that go better on grilled pizza?

One of the differences for sure when it comes to toppings is the cheese. Soft cheese works very well on a grilled pie.

How many of your toppings are made in-house and what are they?

I’ve been making my own mozzarella for over 30 years and still do for Fornino. We also make all of our sausages in-house and you can definitely taste the difference.

What purveyors inspire your creativity, what product, and why?

For homemade cheese, I recommend Coluccio and Sons in Brooklyn and Di Palo in Manhattan.

I really love Brooklyn’s own Ranieri Fine Foods who imports the best cheese. Their products are great and make you excited to get into the kitchen.

Restaurants you can recommend that won’t break the bank, but have killer food?

Degustation: 19 seats and the guy cooks in front of you and you alone. It’s magnificent. It’s like the poor man’s Joël Robuchon

David Burke: David is a serious chef, but doesn’t take his food serious. He has fun with what he makes and is incredibly creative.

Fish Tales: fish tacos and carbonara with lobster.

Paolo’s Restaurant: wonderful Italian food, done very well.

New York has great Italian markets, are there any you love to go to?

My favorite is Coluccio’s in Brooklyn.

Favorite markets around the world to visit?

The street markets in Calabria.

Restaurants where you’re willing to spend your own dime- anywhere, fancy or casual?

I love Georges Blanc!

Cookbooks:

Naples At The Table by Arthur Schwartz.

The New Best Recipe Book from Cooks Illustrated: every recipe is charted, a great cook book.

- Grilled Pizza Dough