Q & A WITH MICHAEL MADRIGALE

Q. How would you describe what you have done with the wine list at Bar Boulud?

A. What I am most proud of the wine list at Bar Boulud is a putting together a list of discovery wines from Burgundy, Rhone, Provence, Languedoc and Roussillion that are not only delicious and represent their respective regions but are also great values. 

Q. What's your favorite classic and atypical food / wine pairing?

A. Classic is a Northern Rhone White like Hermitage Blanc and lobster with cream sauce. Atypical is trocken or halbtrocken Riesling with chicken tacos.

Q. When eating at other restaurants what gets you excited about a wine list?

A. What makes me excited are wine lists with a mark and the attitude of the one who put it together. A wine list where you can tell that the sommelier truly loves wine. Wine lists with a collection of the most sought after wines do not impress me. Neither do lists that reflect what’s hot in the market at the moment.  

 

Q. What drives you nuts with wine lists?

A. Wine lists that are well thought out with a deep selection, but do not have wines that are ready to drink for under $100.

 

Q. You have become known for creative approach to the Bar Boulud wine list, who else (in New York or elsewhere) is doing creative things with their wine lists?

A. Paul Grieco from Hearth / Terroir without a doubt. Paul has something to say and uses his wine programs as a soapbox for his opinions. He has influenced scores of young somms throughout North America.  

Pascaline Lepeliter from Rouge Tomate: easily one of the most charming and hard working sommeliers in city. I love her Loire selection, which I feel is a region totally deserving of more recognition. Also, her cocktail program with infusions and fresh pressed juices are extraordinary.

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Recommendations

FIND... 

Q. What wine resources do you like?

A. Wine and Spirits Magazine is a great resource with in-depth articles and a solid tasting panel.

Also, wineterroirs.com. It’s a fantastic travelogue of a Parisian blogger who visits numerous wine producers throughout Europe. Refreshingly without the ubiquitous 100 point scale.

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Q. What are some of your favorite places to buy wine personally (in New York, elsewhere, or on the web)?

A. I love Crush and Chambers Street Wines in New York City. Great selection, informed staff, great prices. Also, I like Gary Vaynerchuk’s Wine Library for price and selection.

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EAT...

Q. Off the beaten track places to eat, that you’d be excited to take an adventurous eater?

A. I think Queens has the most authentic cuisine in the city right now, from the Greek Tavernas in Astoria to the regional Chinese cuisine in Flushing to the South American bodegas in Jackson Heights.

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Q. Favorite restaurants for their wine list’s: depth, value, and by the glass program (and what do you specifically love)?

A. Casa Mono: great collection of Northern Spain whites like Verdejo, Ribiera, and Txakolina.

Wallsé: awesome collection of blue chip Austrian wines.

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Q. Favorite place to eat out when you don’t want to think about wine?

A. Love Zum Schneider on Avenue C. Best schnitzel in New York City and my favorite beer on draft, Jever, from Northern Germany. Sometimes you get tired of wine. I have a knee jerk reaction to analyze every wine that I put into my mouth and sometimes that can be exhausting. A crisp draft beer is the perfect antidote for that.

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Q. You spent some time working in Burgundy. For people traveling to the region, where should they eat ??

A. Ma Cusine is fantastic. Classic and well executed Burgundian specialties.  I also like the Bistrot Bourguignon for the fantastic wines by the glass.

Another great place, believe it or not, is in the train station in Nuits St Georges. It’s a canteen where there is no choice but consistently correct and well priced country food. I used to go there three times per week when I was working in the vineyards for the Domaine de l'Arlot. The place was always filled with vineyard workers, which was all the convincing I needed.

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DRINK...

Q. What are your favorite wine bars in New York and what are some of your favorites from their list?

A. I love going to the bar at Otto and getting a chilled bottle of Koferhof Kerner with the anchovies and bread crumbs antipasti. 

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Q. What wine is always on hand at home... your go-to wine?

A. Riesling, Champagne, and Cornas.

I like drinking Trocken/Halbtrocken Rieslings at home. For instance, 2008 Keller Von der Fels is slamming as well 2008 Peter Lauer ‘Senoir’ and anything from Van Volxem.

For champs, I am enamored with all of the ‘Special Clubs’ available on the market. What's particularly knocking me out right now is the 2002 Vazart-Coquart as well as the 2002 Lassalle.

For Cornas, I like Thierry Allemand (the king) as well a new up and comer named Matthieu Barret (Domaine du Coulet).

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Q. When not at work, what is your favorite pre-dinner drink / aperitif?

A. I love the sweet/sour and bitter quality of Campari and soda. It wakes my palate up for a long night of drinking.

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Q. And what is your favorite after dinner drink / digestif?

A. I love Cappellano Chinato and a good Calvados. Michel Huard is my go to Calvados.

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Q. Any recommendations for restaurants with great food and a friendly BYOB policy?

A. Chinese restaurants are great for BYO. The Grand Sichuan, Fuleen Seafood and Phoenix Garden.

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RECOMMENDATIONS

Photograph from Michael Madrigale

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